This is smugglers' territory and you can see why. Hidden away in the Cuckmere Valley, Alfriston could be miles from anywhere. The sort of place to go if you don't want to be spotted. As we drive through the village at 12 o'clock it's clear the village is no longer a secret. The main street throngs with walkers and cyclists who've arrived in the village from a morning spent on the Downs, just in time for lunch. We'll be back in the village...but much later. Our walk starts at the far side of the village, high up on the Downs overlooking the Cuckmere at High and Over (Hindover).